How to use a serger for ruffles and frills. As fashion changes, one type or the other becomes more popular. Most of the frills I currently make are circular. You can find them on the hem of skirts and dresses, but also sleeves and necklines often have sporty ruffles. The type, size and number of ruffles you choose for a particular outfit depends on the effect you are trying to achieve. Just keep in mind.

The bigger the ruffles and the more volume they have at the bottom, the heavier your flamenco outfit will be and of course you will need more fabric. You end up with a kind of donut shape. You then cut the resulting ring (along the blue line in the drawing), connect the desired number of circles stitched edges together to form one long frill and, after completing both edges; sew the inner edge (on the orange drawing) to the garment.

The edge sewn to the garment is smaller than the outer edge – this is what creates the glare we’re focusing on. The greater the difference in the diameter of the two circles, the more the opening occurs. Trim the inner circle for more volume.


How to use a serger for ruffles and frills. Do you know the difference between frills and flounces btw? Well, the ruffles must be gathered at the seam while the ruffles remain plain. Ruffles usually consist of a straight rectangular piece, and ruffles are more of a spiral or round shape. When it comes to the types of hems, you have several options: create a normal hem by folding over the edge, a rolled hem with a serger, or tie it with a bias strip. But of course you can also leave a rough edge.

If you like a flare like this but not a bias binding, you can add fishing line to the inside of the hem. Just a few words about the collection process. The easiest way is to sew one row of long stitches on a sewing machine. For particularly heavy fabrics, you can close the cord like this with a zigzag stitch.

Then pull the string to gather the fabric. Once you attach the ruffle, you can remove the string. There is also such a thing as a sewing machine presser foot. This will be the final length. Then decide how full you want the ruffle to be and calculate it. For example, you can count 1, 5 – 2 or 3 times the final length.

Then of course there is the width of the frill. If needed, just add seam allowance and hem allowance. Don’t forget to consider the choice of fabric and the width of the frill. So if you’re using a heavier weight fabric, you might not want to pick up as much as chiffon because it would be really bulky. And a narrower ruffle will look fuller on the hem than a wider one, even if it’s gathered just the same.

For its production, the calculation procedure is the same as for basic frills. You now have two hems, but no seam is needed. This frill will be sewn and gathered in the middle. After putting on the ruffle, you can remove the gathering thread so that you only have one row of stitches in the middle. Apart from attaching these ruffles in one or more rows to decorate your garments, you can also create spiral shapes.


How to use a serger for ruffles and frills. To calculate how many circles you need for a ruffle, measure the hem of the skirt or wherever the ruffle goes, for example 4m. Then measure the diameter of the inner circle of your ruffle and divide the length of the hem by that measurement. In our example, let’s say we want to use the large ruffle shown in the image above, we divide the 4m into 0.5m and find that we will need to cut 8 circles and sew them together to make the desired 4m ruffle.

Ruffles are cut from one or more rectangular pieces of fabric, joined at a short edge where one long edge is gathered to form a ruffle. I use a special presser foot on my sewing machine to gather. If you are planning on picking up the fabric more than once or twice, I can only recommend that you check if it is available for your sewing machine. It really takes the effort out of the task. Of course, you can create ruffles by hand or using the regular function of your sewing machine.

Similar to circle ruffles, the more you gather, the more flare you will have, and the longer your strip of fabric needs to be (usually somewhere between 1.5 and 3 times your desired length. You can sew this second type to a garment with both long edges.

Finish the edge of the frill that you will sew to the garment in the same way as the rest of your flamenco dress: use a serger or zigzag stitch on your sewing machine, etc. If you want the visible part of the frills to have a nice finish, again two basic options.

A solid rolled hem with a serger stitch, that’s what I do most of the time, or I’ll finish the ruffle with bias binding. You can also add some lace or a little ruffle. The possibilities are endless. Play with contrasting fabrics for real ruffles, style ruffles in contrasting colors, mix and match ruffle types and sizes, attach ruffles horizontally or vertically, create ruffles by gathering the inside edge of a circular ruffle for extra volume, etc.


Learn how to use a serger for ruffles and frills with the following simple steps.

There are several different ways to clean up the edge of a ruffle, but the most commonly used is a double-folded machine-stitched hem. The seam allowance for the long edge of the frill is 1/2″. This means you should turn the raw edge inside out (toward the wrong side of the fabric) once halfway through the seam (1/4″) and then turn the folded edge one more time at 1/ 4″ to close the raw edge of the fabric. When folding, iron and place several horizontal pins to hold this fold in place.

Always finish the hem of the ruffle first as it is very difficult once the ruffle is gathered. Stitch as close to the fold line as possible. Use two stitches on the sewing machine. The first stitch should be right along the seam line at the edge of the seam (in this case 1/2″) and the second one halfway up the length of the seam (1/4″). Make sure you leave longer loose threads at both ends so you can easily pull out the picked up stitch.

Align the hemmed edge of the frill with the matching raw edge of the seam. Place the pin perpendicular to the edge as shown. Wrap the loose threads in a crises-cross motion around the pin. This will prevent the stitches from unraveling when you pull them to pick up the ruffle at the opposite end.

At the opposite end of the pinned ruffle, carefully pull the top two threads to create a gather. Gently pull up to the pinned edge and slowly approach the scoop. Even out the picked-up stitches as you pull. Do this until the gathered edge is exactly the same length as the edge it is being sewn to.

After making sure the gathering is evenly spaced along the edge, pin the gathered seam of the frill perpendicular to the edge. Prevent the gathering from loosening on the other edge by crossing the loose threads around the pin as you did earlier.


How to use a serger for ruffles and frills as a sewing beginner will help you better understand the fullness and flow of the fabric. Ruffles can be constructed in different lengths, fullness and flow.

There are two main styles of ruffles that differ in cut and construction: Straight ruffles and circle ruffles. Straight ruffles are cut into a strip shape and need to be gathered to achieve fullness. Circle ruffles are cut in a circular shape that provides fullness once the inner edge is straightened and sewn into the seam. Below we’ll show you how to cut and sew both of these ruffle styles.

As perhaps the simpler of the two, it requires you to cut the ruffle into a straight strip that is gathered for fullness. If you’re a beginner stitcher, this is a great way to practice gathering while learning how to sew a ruffle. Plain frill is the most commonly used straight frill and is characterized by one finished hem edge and a second gathered edge that is tucked into the seam (or other rough edge). This style of frill is mostly used on garments and is very easy to cut and sew.

The double ruffle has two finished hems at opposite ends, but the gathering stitch is applied right in the middle of both edges. The gather is then either top-stitched to the garment or using other reinforcement such as twill tape or binding. The double flounce is great for achieving twice the fullness of a regular flounce on lighter fluid veil fabrics. It’s also a great way to apply a decorative double row of ruffles to more structured fabrics.

The title frill has two finished hems and is gathered at a shorter distance from one of the hems. Unlike a plain ruffle, the cap ruffle is not sewn into the seam, but is simply folded to create two reflective ruffles of different sizes. The gather is then sewn to the garment or to a strip of twill tape or binding to hold it in place. Although this type of pleating is also used in clothing, it is most often seen on curtains and decorative upholstery.


How to use a serger for ruffles and frills. When cleaning finishing ruffles, you should keep in mind that the back of the fabric will be visible from certain angles or when moving. This means that both the front and the back of the fabric should be completely clean. A baby hem, which is folded over twice and stitched at 1/8″-1/4″ intervals, is the most common way to finish ruffle hems. For a more luxurious feel or when the back of the ruffle requires less visibility, a self-facing can be used. A frill that is printed basically folds over itself to cover the wrong side of the fabric and is usually used on delicate.


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